As I said before removing and putting the new combs in place would be simple and it was. The only glitch with this was I tried to use the new screws provided and they were not wood screws and were too thin. So I used the original screws, no problem. One side done and now the other.
I also decided to install the new metal brackets instead of keeping the old ones.
And now the new springs go in place.
Done
Now was time to start replacing the felt on the chord bars. I discovered this takes some time so am doing a few a day for a while. I wanted to be sure I got the gaps placed properly on the particular chord bar I was working on, starting with E flat Major chord the first in the row of chord bars. I traced the chord bar first on a piece of paper.
Then I took a fine tipped black marker and marked the spaces on the metal bar. (By the way, these chord bars are covered so it doesn't matter if I mark on them this way. If your chord bars are visible you will want to use a dry erase type marker so that it will wipe off.) Just to be sure I remembered which were the gaps, I placed an arrow pointing upward to signal this was the gap. As you can see I had started to remove the old felt. If you are very careful sometimes you can get the knife under the adhesive layer under the felt and pull most of it off as a whole. The key word is "sometimes". Otherwise pull the felt off and carefully with the knife scrape, roll, peel, the adhesive layer off. This metal seems to be soft aluminium and will scar easily. So one must be careful not to dig into the aluminum with the knife. I used some spotting solvent to get the final bits of adhesive off and clean where the new felt will go. This must not be an oily solvent or you will not be able to get your new felt to stick. So if you try this only use the slightest amount of liquid and then dry it off well so there is no residue of solvent left. The new felt comes with an adhesive backing.
Progress
I didn't show the cleaning step.
The felt can be purchased already cut to length to match the chord bar or you can buy a 25 ft length. I decided on the uncut length so that I would have extra should I need it in the future and the cost is maybe a couple of dollars more. It seemed like a good idea.
I pulled the paper backing off the adhesive a little at a time to expose the sticky side and slowly place it on the chord bar.
To cut the felt you use a single edged razor blade and just push through the felt (do not saw back and forth)
Finished with applying the felt
Now....it is time to start cutting the gaps from the felt. It is recommended by Oscar Schmidt "helps and tips" to use a v-shaped cut rather than cutting away the gap as the original had been. Some how the V cut gives more strength to the felt over all. The instructions were to angle cut 1/16th of an inch to the outside of the marked edge of the gap angling toward the center of the gap. Same from the other side.
This is the first chord bar I did. I placed over my tracing and it is accurate
The V cuts got better as I proceeded and looked more crisp and even. I have 2 chord bars done as of this moment. I won't be able to get back to it until next week. So stay tuned and check back next week for Part 3
4 comments:
Wow, that looks like a lot of work! Thank you, mommy =-D. It's interesting to see how you are getting it done.
Wow! What a project. I guess working in a shoe repair business gives you all kinds of skills! Plus you sew as well!
Kerry, it is a lot of work but "fun" work. Your welcome my daughter, it will be yours some day. I just thought it might make an interesting post for my music blog.
Carol, Thanks for stopping by and checking out this post. I have never done anything like this before, but it is pretty straight forward and the Oscar Schmidt website "helps and tips" gave me the confidence to try it DIY.
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